How to convert RAW to JPG in your browser

A RAW file is the unprocessed data straight off your camera's sensor — everything it captured, before the camera turns it into a finished picture. Each brand uses its own flavor: Sony writes .ARW, Canon .CR2, Nikon .NEF, and Adobe's open format is .DNG. Because they hold so much detail, RAW files are large, and plenty of apps, phones and browsers simply can't preview them.

That is the whole reason people convert RAW to JPG: a JPG is a compact, universally readable copy you can actually view, email, post or drop into a document. You trade some of the RAW's editing headroom for a file that just works everywhere.

Turning a RAW file into a shareable JPG takes a few seconds and never leaves your machine:

1. Open the EditItAll converter and drop your RAW file in.
2. Choose JPG as the output and set the quality — higher quality looks better and weighs more; lower quality makes a smaller file.
3. Export and download. You get a JPG you can preview and share anywhere.

If you would rather start on a page built for your camera's format, use the direct route: ARW to JPG for Sony, CR2 to JPG for Canon, NEF to JPG for Nikon, or DNG to JPG for Adobe DNG. Each one runs entirely in your browser — you can go offline after the page loads and it still works, which is the clearest sign nothing is being uploaded.

Be clear about what this does. The converter decodes the RAW and re-encodes it as a JPG — it reads the sensor data and writes a viewable image out. What it does not do is develop the RAW the way a dedicated darkroom app would: there is no exposure grading, no white-balance tuning, no pulling detail back out of the highlights and shadows. You are getting a faithful, shareable JPG of the shot, not a reworked negative.

The same limit applies to the browser photo editor — it opens JPG, PNG and WebP, but it cannot develop camera RAW. So the honest workflow is: convert the RAW to a JPG here first, then, if you want to crop, retouch or add text, take that JPG into the editor. Treat the conversion as "get a usable picture out," not "process the RAW."

JPG is a lossy format — each save discards a little data to stay small — so the quality slider is a real choice: pick higher quality for prints and archives, lower quality for quick sharing. Whatever you choose, the JPG will be far smaller than the RAW it came from.

Two habits are worth keeping. First, keep your original RAW: it holds the most detail, and the JPG is only ever a copy. Second, know that EXIF metadata — including any GPS coordinates — is stripped when the JPG is written, so the copy you share won't leak where the photo was taken. If you want to read up on your camera's format first, see the explainers for ARW, CR2, NEF and DNG.